Larapinta Trail - My itinerary
Before I launch in to a day by day “story” of my Larapinta Trail experience, here’s an overview of my trip as completed:
Day 1: Alice Springs to Wallaby Gap = 13.7km
Day 2: Wallaby Gap to Arenge View = 24km
Day 3: Arenge View to Pravda Spur = 18.6km
Day 4: Pravda Spur to Standley Chasm = 8.6km
Day 5: Standley Chasm to Brinkley Bluff = 10km
Day 6: Brinkley Bluff to Birthday Waterhole = 9.9km
Day 7: Birthday Waterhole to Fringe Lily Creek = 8.5km
Day 8: Fringe Lily Creek to Hugh Gorge Junction = 3.6km
Day 9: Hugh Gorge Junction to Rocky Gully = 19km
Day 10: Rocky Gully to Ellery Creek North = 13.6km
Day 11: Ellery Creek North to Counts Point = 20.2km
Day 12: Counts Point to Mt Giles Lookout = 22.5km
Day 13: Mt Giles Lookout to Ormiston Gorge = 13.4km
Day 14: Ormiston Gorge to Hilltop Lookout = 18.9km
Day 15: Hilltop Lookout to Redbank Gorge = 15.6km
Day 16: Redbank Gorge to Mount Sonder summit to Redbank Gorge = 14.2km
Day 1: I think this is a good first day - it’s not too long, but long enough to figure out any problems. It includes a few ups and downs and some great views. A great introduction to the trail.
Day 2: I ended up walking a lot further than where I was planned to camp. I wanted a sunset view of Arenge Bluff. I passed what looked like a great place to camp, but decided to push on further as I decided (after reading the official Larapinta Trail map accompanying information) that it wasn’t the campsite as marked on the map and a better view would be further on. The further I walked, the less impressive the view became and so I decided at around 5:30pm to call it a day and to make do with a half decent photographic view I found. It was next to a dry creek and there were a lot of random cattle I could hear (and smell!). The flies were atrocious in this spot (one of the only places I put my fly net on), and the mozzies were insane as soon as the sun went down. I then found the “Arenge View” sign, the next morning, but the view wasn’t as good as what I think I had captured on my random track-side camp.
Day 3: Pravda Spur ended up being one of my favourite Larapinta camps - well worth taking the high road and the water carry! Thanks to LTTS for the tip! (Larapinta Trail Trek Support)
Day 4: I had originally planned to continue on to Brinkley Bluff and not stay at Standley Chasm, but this section of the walk was particularly challenging. I found the second half of Section 3 very difficult with a lot of steep up and down. I couldn’t pass up on the chance for a burger, a relax and a hot shower at Standley Chasm so rather than rush up Brinkley Bluff, I stayed at Standley Chasm and was so glad I did!
Day 5: This was one of the days I was not looking forward to - my pack was going to be the heaviest I had ever carried in my life - 8 days worth of food and supplies, 7 litres of water as I knew I wouldn’t have water until halfway through Day 6, and the camera gear. BUT, it was surprisingly manageable. The trail was a well planned ascent. Not too steep, more zig-zags than steep clambering! It was quite long, with several false summits. I nearly cried when I saw the actual summit!
Day 6: Well worth the detour to camp next to the water at Birthday Waterhole. My first swim of the trail!
Day 7: I sacrificed another high point camp at Paisley Bluff Lookout (between Windy Saddle and Razorback Ridge), to camp next to the flowing water at Fringe Lily Creek. I’m glad I did - Fringe Lily was also a highlight. However, I am sad I didn’t come away with any killer shots of Razorback Ridge (I was up there in the midday sun). This is one area I’d like to re-hike to camp at the top of windy Razorback and get those sunrise/sunset shots. I think I would have camped up here if there was no water at Fringe Lily.
Day 8: A very short day! I was finished by around 10:30am.
Day 9: Hugh Gorge was spectacular but I was worried about the time it took me to take to get through it due to lots of water (2 x boots removal to get through water), lots of zig zagging and clambering to get around the water. So, with hindsight, I could have made Hugh Gorge Junction to Hugh Gorge Camp another day for photography.
Day 10: An easy day after the terrain of the previous 8!
Day 11: Ellery to Serpentine Gorge was an easy walk, the second half was a bit tougher.
Day 12: A huge day for me. I was exhausted after this one! I arrived in to camp quite late for me and photography, probably around 5:30pm (rushed tent set up and dinner to make time to shoot sunset!). I was lucky there was water at Waterfall Gorge, as I’d only carried 7l. I drank another 2l at Ormiston Gorge and carried 6l up to camp. I would have been very short had there not been water at Waterfall Gorge. This was a hot day for me. If it was cooler, I probably would have been OK carrying the 7. The stretch from Inarlanga Pass to Waterfall Gorge felt very long and exposed, and not as flat as I’d expected.
Day 13: Loved the early morning ridge walk! And the treats available at Ormiston kiosk!
Day 14: I had a water crossing! In the desert! Davenport Creek was just under chest height. The high point campsite that night had the BEST views of Sonder!
Day 15: I could not believe the trail was nearly over! Definitely my quickest day on this stretch - I was hammering those km out!
Day 16: 3:30am start and I got to the summit of Sonder just on first light, around 6:10am. An easy ascent, not steep, just long.
Favourite campsite for photography: Count’s Point - Night 11 (but it was my windiest, most-sleepless night!)
Favourite campsite all round: Ellery Creek North - great facilities, a surprise USB charge point, beautiful swimming, great photographic opportunities, dingo howls heard… I camped in the creek bed at the back of Ellery Big Hole and it was a beautiful place to put a tent!
Favourite section: 3 and 5, I can’t pick!
Hardest section: I would probably say section 3.
Hardest days for me: day 1 and day 12
Swim stops: Birthday Waterhole, Finge Lily Creek, Ellery Creek North, Davenport Creek (day 14).
Swim stops I could have had, but didnt: Hugh Gorge Waterhole (freezing cold!), Serpentine Chalet Dam, Ormiston Gorge, Redbank Gorge
Showers: Standley Chasm and Ormiston Gorge
Favourite photography locations: Birthday Waterhole, Fringe Lily Creek, Ellery North, Counts Point, HIlltop Lookout in section 11…. but I also loved Pravda Spur, Mout Giles Lookout, Hugh Gorge, plus so many of the “gaps” and gorges I walked through but didn’t have the time to stop and shoot. (I think that’s too many favourites, so I can honestly say I loved the whole trail! Apart from the top of Razorback Ridge in the mid-day sun. That was my least favourite.
Places I want to revisit for photography: Hugh Gorge, Razorback Ridge
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